Hanoi and Ha Long Bay: What I Saw, Ate and Would Do Again

By Blaise Jaeger · Updated October 10, 2026

Hanoi was the last stop of my trip across Vietnam in April 2024. I landed from Da Nang on the morning of April 11, left for Sapa that night, came back the next evening, spent a full day in Ha Long Bay on the 13th and flew home from Noi Bai on the 14th. Four days in and around the capital, split between its streets and the bay three hours away.

This guide covers what I would do again in Hanoi, what I would skip, where to eat and stay, and how to see Ha Long Bay from Hanoi in a day.

Lanterns and crowded bars in Hanoi's Old Quarter at night — The Old Quarter at night, April 2024

Why Visit Hanoi?

Hanoi is more than a thousand years old and it shows: temples and pagodas sit next to French colonial villas, Soviet-era ministries and narrow tube houses. It is also the most Vietnamese of the big cities, louder and less polished than Ho Chi Minh City, with scooters everywhere, street food on every corner and propaganda posters above the traffic.

It is also the base for the north: Ha Long Bay is about three hours away by road, Ninh Binh two, and Sapa five to six by bus.

Ho Chi Minh propaganda poster above scooter traffic in Hanoi — Scooters and a Ho Chi Minh poster: Hanoi in one picture

How Many Days Do You Need in Hanoi?

Two days in Hanoi itself are enough for the Old Quarter, Hoan Kiem Lake, the Temple of Literature, the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum area and Train Street.
Add one day for Ha Long Bay on a day cruise, or two for a night on board.
Add two days for Sapa, with a night bus each way if you are short on time, as I did.

Hanoi is usually the start or the end of a north–south trip. The full route and the best time to go are in my guide to planning your trip to Vietnam.

Things to Do in Hanoi

Walk the Old Quarter and Hoan Kiem Lake

The Old Quarter, north of Hoan Kiem Lake, is still known as the 36 Streets: each street was once home to one guild, and many still carry the name of what was sold there, like Hang Bac, the silver street. Walk it without a plan, and come back after dark, when the pavements fill with plastic stools and food stalls.

Hoan Kiem Lake is the heart of the city. The red Huc Bridge leads to Ngoc Son Temple, on a small island, and is lit up every evening. On Friday, Saturday and Sunday evenings, the streets around the lake are closed to traffic and become a huge walking street.

Take the Hanoi City Tour Bus

On my first morning, with only a few hours before the night bus to Sapa, I took the red double-decker Hanoi City Tour from Hoan Kiem Lake. It is a hop-on hop-off loop that passes the Opera House, the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, the One Pillar Pagoda, the Flag Tower and the Temple of Literature. It is the most efficient way to see the main sights when your time is short.

Red Hanoi City Tour double-decker bus near Hoan Kiem Lake — The Hanoi City Tour bus, my way of seeing the city in half a day

Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum and the One Pillar Pagoda

Ba Dinh Square, where Ho Chi Minh declared independence in 1945, is dominated by his mausoleum. Visits to the embalmed body are only possible in the morning, on some days of the week, and the mausoleum closes for a few weeks of maintenance each year, so check before you go. Nearby are the Presidential Palace gardens, the stilt house where Ho Chi Minh lived and the small One Pillar Pagoda, built on a single stone column.

Temple of Literature

Founded in 1070 and dedicated to Confucius, the Temple of Literature became Vietnam’s first university. Its five courtyards, ponds and stone turtles carrying the names of laureates are a quiet break from the traffic. When I visited, groups of graduating students in black gowns were posing for photos at the gate. Entry is 70,000 VND, cash only, from 8 am to 5 pm.

Red lacquered hall with bronze cranes inside the Temple of Literature, Hanoi — Inside the Temple of Literature

Train Street

Train Street is a stretch of railway squeezed between houses, where trains pass a few inches from the doorsteps. In April 2024 I sat at one of the cafés along the tracks with an egg coffee and watched the train go by, and it was one of the highlights of Hanoi.

Be aware of the rules, though: cafés on the tracks have officially been banned since 2019, barriers block some access points, and in early 2026 the authorities agreed to reduce the number of trains on this section. Check the current situation before going, follow the café owners’ instructions and never stand on the tracks when a train is due.

A train passing through Hanoi Train Street between cafés and houses — The train passing through Train Street, April 2024

Egg coffee on the tracks of Train Street, Hanoi — Egg coffee, Hanoi’s speciality, by the tracks

Churches, Museums and the Beer Street

St Joseph’s Cathedral, a neo-Gothic church from 1886 near Hoan Kiem Lake, is a reminder of the French period, like the yellow Cua Bac Church further west. If you have more time, the Vietnam Museum of Ethnology explains the country’s 54 ethnic groups, with traditional houses rebuilt in its garden.

The yellow colonial-era Cua Bac Church in Hanoi — Cua Bac Church, one of Hanoi’s French-era churches

At night, everyone ends up on Ta Hien, the beer street of the Old Quarter, where bars spill onto the road and draught beer costs very little. It is loud, crowded and touristy, and worth seeing once.

Crowded bars on Ta Hien beer street in Hanoi's Old Quarter at night — Ta Hien, the beer street, on a Friday night

What to Eat in Hanoi

Hanoi is the home of pho, bun cha (grilled pork with noodles) and egg coffee. On April 12, back from Sapa, I had dinner at a plastic table on Hang Bac street: stir-fried noodles at 90,000 to 100,000 VND, grilled pork skewers at 80,000 VND, spring rolls and a cold Hanoi beer. My favourite dishes, with prices, are in my guide to Vietnamese food.

Street food dinner on Hang Bac street in Hanoi's Old Quarter — Dinner on Hang Bac street, April 12, 2024

Grilled skewers at a street food stall in Hanoi at night — Grilled skewers in the Old Quarter

Where to Stay in Hanoi

Old Quarter and Hoan Kiem: the best base for a first visit. Everything is within walking distance, and the limousine buses to Ha Long and Sapa pick up here, as mine did.
French Quarter: south of the lake, quieter, with wide avenues and the grand hotels.
Tay Ho (West Lake): calmer and greener, better for a longer stay than for a short visit.

I compare places on Booking.com. In the Old Quarter, ask for a room away from the street if you are a light sleeper.

Ha Long Bay from Hanoi

Ha Long Bay, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is a sea of nearly 2,000 limestone islands rising from emerald water. I did it as a day trip on April 13, and it was enough to see the highlights, even if a night on board gives you the quiet morning that day-trippers miss.

Getting from Hanoi to Ha Long Bay

The highway takes about two and a half to three hours. I took a limousine van, a minibus with reclining seats, which picked me up near Hoan Kiem Lake in the morning and dropped me at the cruise pier. Expect 350,000 to 450,000 VND one way, less on a standard bus. You can book it on 12Go, or take a day cruise that includes the transfer.

Limousine bus to Ha Long Bay waiting near Hoan Kiem Lake in Hanoi — The limousine bus to Ha Long, near Hoan Kiem Lake

My Day Cruise in Ha Long Bay

Most day cruises follow the same route, and mine did too:

Sung Sot Cave (Surprise Cave): a climb to a viewpoint over the bay, then a walk through three huge chambers of stalactites.
Luon Cave: a bamboo boat, rowed by a local woman, or a kayak, under a rock arch into a hidden lagoon.
Ti Top Island: a beach and a steep staircase to a panoramic viewpoint.
Sunset on the way back, then the bus to Hanoi. I was back in the Old Quarter around 11 pm.

Ha Long Bay and cruise boats seen from the viewpoint at Sung Sot Cave — The view from the Sung Sot Cave viewpoint

Inside Sung Sot (Surprise) Cave, Ha Long Bay — Me inside Sung Sot Cave

Stalactites in the main chamber of Sung Sot Cave, Ha Long Bay — The main chamber of Sung Sot Cave

Bamboo boats passing under the rock arch of Luon Cave, Ha Long Bay — Bamboo boats under the arch of Luon Cave

A woman rowing a bamboo boat below a limestone cliff in Ha Long Bay — Rowing boats in the Luon lagoon

Crowded Ti Top Beach on a Ha Long Bay day cruise — Ti Top Beach in the late afternoon: busy

Sunset over the karst islands of Ha Long Bay from a cruise boat — Sunset over the bay on the way back

Day Cruise, Overnight Cruise or Lan Ha Bay?

Day cruise: the cheapest and fastest option, but a long day of at least 12 hours, and you share every stop with hundreds of other boats.
One or two nights on board: more time in the bay, sunrise without the crowds, and usually a kayak stop in quieter areas.
Lan Ha Bay or Bai Tu Long Bay: the same scenery with far fewer boats. Lan Ha is reached from Cat Ba Island, Bai Tu Long from the north of Ha Long.

Whatever you choose, get to Ti Top early if you want the beach and the viewpoint to yourself: by late afternoon it is packed.

Getting to and Around Hanoi

From Noi Bai Airport: about 45 minutes to the Old Quarter by Grab or taxi, or take the airport bus.
In the city: walk in the Old Quarter, and use Grab for cars or motorbike taxis at a fixed price for anything further.
To the rest of Vietnam: flights to Da Nang and Ho Chi Minh City, the night train to Hue, and buses to Sapa and Ninh Binh, all covered in my guide to getting around Vietnam.

Practical Tips for Hanoi

Best time to visit: October to April. December to February can be cold and grey; May to September is hot, humid and rainy.
Crossing the street: walk slowly and steadily; scooters will go around you. Never step back suddenly.
Cash: street food, small cafés and temple tickets are cash only.
Dress code: cover shoulders and knees for the mausoleum, temples and pagodas.

Hanoi FAQ

Is Ha Long Bay worth it as a day trip from Hanoi?

Yes, if you are short on time: I saw the caves, Luon lagoon, Ti Top and the sunset in a day. But it is long, with about six hours on the road, and an overnight cruise is more relaxing.

Is Sapa a day trip from Hanoi?

No. It is five to six hours each way. Plan at least one night, or a night bus there and back as I did. Everything else is in my Sapa guide.

Can you still visit Hanoi Train Street?

Access depends on the period: the cafés are officially banned and the authorities regularly tighten controls. Check the latest situation locally before going, and stay off the tracks when a train is due.

Hanoi is a city to feel more than to tick off: walk, eat on the street, take a day for the bay. For the rest of the country, start with my Vietnam travel guide.