By Blaise Jaeger · Updated October 14, 2026

Rome, the capital of Italy and the “Eternal City”, concentrates almost three thousand years of history in a few kilometres: the Colosseum and the Roman Forum, the Pantheon, the baroque squares and fountains, and, across the Tiber, the Vatican with St Peter’s Basilica and the Vatican Museums. Its historic centre is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and most of the sights can be reached on foot.

I know Rome well: I travelled there dozens of times for work between 2004 and 2009, and I have been back several times since. This guide follows my last stay, at the end of May 2025, with my friend Roy, before a family wedding near Tivoli and the train to Florence: what we did day by day, the tickets to book, where we stayed and how to get around.

Rome at a Glance

• Where: in Lazio, central Italy, about 25 km from the sea; the main airport is Fiumicino.
• Main station: Roma Termini, the hub for the airport train, the metro and high-speed trains.
• Must-see: the Colosseum and the Roman Forum, the Pantheon, the Trevi Fountain, Piazza Navona, the Vatican Museums and St Peter’s Basilica.
• How long: three days for the highlights, plus a day trip to Tivoli.
• Book ahead: the Vatican Museums and the Colosseum work with timed tickets.
• Getting around: on foot in the centre, with the metro or a taxi for longer distances.

My Rome Itinerary

Day 1 evening: from Fiumicino to the Trevi Fountain

On Tuesday, May 27, 2025, we landed at Fiumicino and took the Leonardo Express, the non-stop train to Roma Termini, with luggage racks in each carriage. We stayed at the Colosseo Relais, in the Monti district, a few minutes’ walk from the Colosseum and the Roman Forum.

In the evening, we walked to the Trevi Fountain. At 8:45 PM, at dusk, there were still many people around the basin.

Day 2: the Pantheon, the papal audience and the Vatican

On Wednesday, May 28, we started at 10:00 AM with the Pantheon, the Roman temple turned church, whose concrete dome with its central oculus is almost two thousand years old. We then walked across the Tiber, past Castel Sant’Angelo, to the Vatican.

Wednesday morning is the day of the Pope’s general audience. When we arrived in St Peter’s Square around 11:00 AM, the square was full, with giant screens set up for the faithful.

Around midday, we entered the Vatican Museums with tickets booked in advance. Among the rooms we crossed was the Gallery of Maps, a 120-metre corridor lined with painted maps of Italy under a gilded ceiling, on the way to the Sistine Chapel.

In the afternoon, we walked through the Borgo, the old streets between the Vatican and Castel Sant’Angelo, then down Via della Conciliazione with its view of the dome of St Peter’s, and on to Piazza Navona, with Bernini’s Fountain of the Four Rivers and the church of Sant’Agnese in Agone. We then walked on to the Vittoriano, the white monument on Piazza Venezia.

Day 3 morning: the Roman Forum and the Colosseum

On Thursday, May 29, we were at the Roman Forum at 10:30 AM, the heart of ancient Rome: temples, triumphal arches and the remains of the Senate, between the Capitoline and Palatine hills. From there, the Colosseum is just a short walk away.

Inside the Colosseum, from the upper tiers, you look down on the arena and the underground passages where gladiators and animals waited before the games.

Day 3 afternoon: Villa d’Este in Tivoli

In the early afternoon, we rented a car at Roma Termini to drive to Tivoli, about 30 km east of Rome, and to the castle near San Gregorio da Sassola where my godson’s wedding was taking place and where we stayed the following nights. On the way, around 4:00 PM, we visited Villa d’Este, a Renaissance villa famous for its terraced gardens and its hundreds of fountains, also a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Day 4: a wedding at San Luigi dei Francesi

On Friday, May 30, we went back into Rome for the wedding ceremony, held at San Luigi dei Francesi, the church of the French in Rome, a few steps from Piazza Navona. Its Contarelli Chapel houses Caravaggio’s paintings of the life of St Matthew. The celebration then continued at the castle near San Gregorio da Sassola.

Last morning: San Gregorio da Sassola and back to Termini

On Saturday, May 31, before leaving, we took a last look at San Gregorio da Sassola, a medieval village perched above a gorge, dominated by its castle. We then drove back to Roma Termini, had lunch at the Mercato Centrale inside the station, and took the 2:35 PM Frecciarossa to Florence.

My Other Visits to Rome

Between 2004 and 2009, my work took me to Rome dozens of times. I have come back several times since: in March 2016, I visited Castel Sant’Angelo, the Vatican Museums and the Sistine Chapel, then the Roman Forum and the Colosseum lit up at night; in June 2017, I picked up a rental car at Fiumicino; and in October 2022, Roy and I visited the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore, near Termini.

Tickets: Vatican Museums and Colosseum

• Vatican Museums: book a timed ticket on the official Vatican Museums website; the visit includes the Gallery of Maps, the Raphael Rooms and the Sistine Chapel. The museums are closed on Sundays, except the last Sunday of the month.
• St Peter’s Basilica: entry is free, with security checks under the colonnade; shoulders and knees must be covered.
• Papal general audience: on Wednesday mornings when the Pope is in Rome; the tickets are free and are requested from the Prefecture of the Papal Household.
• Colosseum and Roman Forum: a combined ticket covers the Colosseum, the Forum and the Palatine; book on the official Colosseum Archaeological Park website.
• Pantheon: entry is now paid (€5) and can be booked online.
• San Luigi dei Francesi: entry is free; Caravaggio’s three paintings of St Matthew are in the Contarelli Chapel, at the back on the left.

Where to Stay in Rome

We stayed at the Colosseo Relais, in Monti, a lively district between the Colosseum and Termini, from where we did the Forum and the Colosseum on foot. Other good bases are the historic centre around the Pantheon and Piazza Navona, Trastevere for its evenings, and Prati for the Vatican.

See all the hotels in Rome.

Getting to and around Rome

• From Fiumicino airport: the Leonardo Express runs non-stop to Roma Termini in about 30 minutes.
• Renting a car: useless in the centre, where traffic-limited zones (ZTL) are fined, but handy for Tivoli and the villages of Lazio. We picked ours up at Roma Termini; you can compare rentals at Roma Termini on Discover Cars.
• To Florence: about 1 h 30 by Frecciarossa or Italo; trains can be compared on 12Go. See my Florence itinerary.
• In the city: walking is the best way to see the centre; the metro has three lines, with stops at Colosseo, Termini and Ottaviano for the Vatican.

Practical Tips for Rome

• Book ahead: the Vatican Museums and the Colosseum, especially from spring to autumn.
• Dress code: cover your shoulders and knees for St Peter’s and the churches.
• Wednesday: St Peter’s Square is crowded during the papal audience; visit the basilica another morning if you want it quieter.
• Heat: from June to August, visit the Forum and the Colosseum early in the morning; there is little shade.
• Water: the city’s public fountains, the nasoni, give free drinking water.

Read More

• Italy travel guide: my trips and itineraries in Italy.
• Florence itinerary: our next stop after Rome.
• Pisa travel guide: the Leaning Tower at sunset.
• Cinque Terre in one day: the five villages by train.

Rome FAQ

How many days do you need in Rome?

Three days are enough for the main sights: the Colosseum and the Forum, the Vatican, the Pantheon, the Trevi Fountain and Piazza Navona. Add a day for Tivoli.

Do you need to book the Vatican Museums in advance?

Yes, a timed ticket booked online avoids the long queue at the entrance.

How do you get from Fiumicino airport to Rome?

The Leonardo Express train runs non-stop from Fiumicino to Roma Termini in about 30 minutes.

When is the papal general audience?

On Wednesday mornings in St Peter’s Square, when the Pope is in Rome. The square fills up well before it starts.

Is Tivoli worth a day trip from Rome?

Yes. Tivoli is about 30 km from Rome, and Villa d’Este, with its gardens and fountains, can be visited in a few hours.

How do you get from Rome to Florence?

By high-speed train from Roma Termini to Firenze Santa Maria Novella, in about 1 h 30.