Sumbawa is one of Indonesia’s last truly untouched islands. Located in West Nusa Tenggara, Sumbawa remains one of the country’s most underrated islands, offering some of the best things to do in eastern Indonesia — from whale shark tours to remote surfing beaches.

Far less developed than Bali or Lombok, Sumbawa is ideal for travelers seeking raw landscapes, authentic villages, and unforgettable wildlife experiences. During each of my visits to Sumbawa, what struck me most was how empty the beaches felt — especially after traveling through Bali and Lombok. Whale shark encounters in Saleh Bay remain also one of the most authentic marine experiences I’ve had in Indonesia.

This complete 2026 Sumbawa travel guide covers the best things to do, where to stay, when to visit, and how to swim with whale sharks responsibly.

Quick Facts About Sumbawa

• 📍 Location: West Nusa Tenggara, Indonesia
• 🐋 Famous for: Whale sharks in Saleh Bay
• 🏄 Surf spots: Lakey Peak, Huu
• 🌋 Volcano: Mount Tambora
• 🗓 Best time to visit: May–November
• ✈ Closest airports: Sumbawa Besar (SWQ), Bima (BMU)

Why Visit Sumbawa?

Sumbawa is best known for:

• 🐋 Swimming with whale sharks in Saleh Bay
• 🏄 World-class surfing in Lakey Peak & Huu
• 🌋 Mount Tambora volcano
• 🏝️ Remote beaches with almost no crowds
• 🐠 Snorkeling & diving around Mojo Island

If Bali feels too busy and Lombok too developed, Sumbawa still feels raw and authentic.

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Best Things to Do in Sumbawa

🐋 Swim with Whale Sharks in Saleh Bay

One of the main reasons travelers visit Sumbawa is the opportunity to swim with whale sharks in Saleh Bay.

Unlike many destinations where sightings are seasonal, whale sharks can be observed here year-round. They are attracted by plankton and traditional fishing platforms known as bagan.

What to Expect

• Early morning departure (around 4–5 am)
• 1-hour boat ride in calm waters
• Snorkeling or diving in shallow conditions
• Whale sharks feeding near the surface
• Excellent visibility (often 15–25m)

The experience is calm and respectful. These gentle giants can grow up to 12 meters long but are completely harmless.

Best Time to See Whale Sharks

Whale sharks are present all year, but the dry season (May–November) offers:

• Calmer seas
• Better visibility
• Higher chance of multiple sightings

Many local operators also observe stronger activity around the new moon.

This is one of the most accessible and authentic whale shark experiences in Indonesia.

🏄 Surfing in Huu & Lakey Peak

Sumbawa is internationally known for its surf breaks.

Lakey Peak and Lakey Pipe near Huu attract surfers from around the world thanks to consistent reef breaks and powerful waves.

Best for:

• Intermediate to advanced surfers
• Dry season swells (May–October)

The atmosphere is laid-back and far less crowded than Bali.

🌊 Kertasari & West Coast Beaches

Kertasari village

The village of Kertasari, on Sumbawa’s western coast, is a surfer’s paradise. Its consistent waves cater to both beginners and experienced surfers. The tranquil setting and absence of crowds make it even more appealing. Besides surfing, Kertasari is ideal for snorkeling and swimming, thanks to its crystal-clear waters and well-preserved coral reefs. Scuba diving with the Mocean Resort is another highlight, offering opportunities to see manta rays feeding near the small island in Kertasari Bay.

The Beaches South of Taliwang

While part of Sumbawa’s western coastline is industrialized, with power plants and mining operations, there are still some truly stunning beaches to explore—ideal for both relaxation and surfing.

One must-visit spot is Scar Reef Beach, a breathtaking and impressive location renowned for its powerful waves. If you’re unsure where to settle on the beach, do as I did and grab a coffee at Myamo Beach Cottage—a great starting point.

Seaweed farming

Surrounded by lush rice fields and green hills, Kertasari also offers visitors a glimpse into rural life. You can learn about the local seaweed farming process, similar to what is seen in Nusa Lembongan, and savor local specialties like ikan bakar (grilled fish) at small seaside eateries (warungs).

🏝️ Mojo Island

Mojo Island is a peaceful snorkeling and diving destination off Sumbawa’s coast.

Expect:

• Clear turquoise waters
• Healthy coral reefs
• Sea turtle nesting sites
• Eco-lodges and simple accommodation

It’s ideal for travelers wanting a slow island escape.

🌋 Mount Tambora

Mount Tambora is one of Indonesia’s most historically significant volcanoes. Its 1815 eruption changed global climate patterns.

Today, trekking Tambora offers:

• Expansive crater views
• Multi-day hiking routes
• Remote wilderness atmosphere

Best attempted during dry season months.

Where to Stay in Sumbawa

West Sumbawa (Kertasari & Taliwang)

• Beachfront guesthouses
• Surf lodges
• Relaxed atmosphere

Whales & Waves in Kertasari offers ocean views and peaceful surroundings.

Sumbawa Besar

Good for:

• Airport access
• Whale shark tours
• Overnight stays before Saleh Bay

Hotel Kaloka is conveniently located and organizes whale shark boat trips.

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Huu / Lakey Peak

Best for surfers.

Simple surf lodges and beachfront stays dominate the area.

Best Time to Visit Sumbawa

The best time to visit Sumbawa is during the dry season (May–November).

Advantages:

• Better surf conditions
• Calmer seas for whale shark tours
• Easier road travel

Rainy season (December–April):

• Greener landscapes
• Fewer tourists
• Occasional rough seas

Whale sharks are present year-round, but dry season offers optimal conditions.

How to Get to Sumbawa

By Air

Fly from:

• Bali (Denpasar)
• Jakarta
• Lombok

Airports:

• Sumbawa Besar (west)
• Bima (east)

Flight time from Bali: ~1 hour.

If you are seated near the window on the left side of the plane from Bali, you may be lucky enough to observe the Rinjani volcano and its crater lake up close.

By Ferry

From Lombok:

• Ferry from Kayangan (Lombok)
• 1.5-hour crossing to Poto Tano (west Sumbawa)
• Operates 24 hours

From Flores:

• Ferry connections to Bima or Sape

How Many Days in Sumbawa?

Minimum: 4–5 days
Ideal: 7–10 days

Example itinerary:

Day 1 – Arrival in Sumbawa Besar
Day 2 – Whale shark tour
Day 3 – Transfer to Kertasari
Day 4 – Surfing or snorkeling
Day 5 – Explore beaches or Tambora

Divers and surfers often stay longer.

Is Sumbawa Worth Visiting?

Yes — especially if you are looking for:

• Authentic Indonesia
• Whale shark encounters
• Fewer tourists
• Remote beaches
• World-class surf

Sumbawa is not luxury-focused or nightlife-driven. It’s wild, simple, and powerful.

Why Sumbawa Is One of Indonesia’s Most Underrated Islands

Sumbawa combines:

• Whale sharks
• Legendary surf breaks
• Volcano trekking
• Empty beaches
• Authentic villages

It’s not polished. It’s not crowded. And that’s exactly what makes it special.

If you’re planning a broader Indonesia trip, you can combine Sumbawa with Lombok, Flores, or Komodo National Park for a truly diverse island adventure.

Frequently Asked Questions About Sumbawa

Is swimming with whale sharks in Sumbawa safe?

Yes. Whale sharks are gentle filter feeders and completely harmless to humans.

When is whale shark season in Sumbawa?

They are present year-round, but May–November offers the best conditions.

Is Sumbawa better than Lombok?

Sumbawa is wilder and less developed. Lombok is easier logistically.

Do you need a guide for whale shark tours?

Yes. Tours operate from Saleh Bay with licensed boat operators.