Located between Lombok and Flores in Indonesia, the island of Sumbawa remains a hidden gem, untouched by mass tourism and offering exceptional natural and cultural richness. Known for its idyllic beaches, world-class surfing spots, and marine biodiversity, Sumbawa also prides itself on its authentic traditions. From Sumbawa Besar to Bima, through Saleh Bay and Mojo Island, this island promises unforgettable experiences, including diving or snorkeling with whale sharks. Here’s an overview of the must-visit places and activities on Sumbawa.
Kertasari: Surfing and Pristine Beauty
The village of Kertasari, on Sumbawa’s western coast, is a surfer’s paradise. Its consistent waves cater to both beginners and experienced surfers. The tranquil setting and absence of crowds make it even more appealing. Besides surfing, Kertasari is ideal for snorkeling and swimming, thanks to its crystal-clear waters and well-preserved coral reefs. Scuba diving with the Mocean Resort is another highlight, offering opportunities to see manta rays feeding near the small island in Kertasari Bay.
Surrounded by lush rice fields and green hills, Kertasari also offers visitors a glimpse into rural life. You can learn about the local seaweed farming process, similar to what is seen in Nusa Lembongan, and savor local specialties like ikan bakar (grilled fish) at small seaside eateries (warungs).
Where to Stay at Kertasari
Stay at Whales & Waves Hotel, located right on the beach, offering breathtaking views, particularly of Mount Rinjani on Lombok when the weather is clear. The hotel’s expansive grounds and coconut trees add to its charm.
Taliwang: Culinary Delights and Traditions
Taliwang, also on the island’s west coast, is famous for its spicy cuisine, particularly ayam Taliwang—grilled marinated chicken served with a fiery sauce. This dish is a must-try for anyone seeking the authentic flavors of Sumbawa.
The town is also known for its artisanal crafts, including batik and traditional weaving. Visitors can watch weaving demonstrations or purchase souvenirs directly from local artisans. Don’t miss the vibrant fish market for fresh seafood and a lively atmosphere.
The Beaches South of Taliwang
While part of Sumbawa’s western coastline is industrialized, with power plants and mining operations, there are still some truly stunning beaches to explore—ideal for both relaxation and surfing.
One must-visit spot is Scar Reef Beach, a breathtaking and impressive location renowned for its powerful waves. If you’re unsure where to settle on the beach, do as I did and grab a coffee at Myamo Beach Cottage—a great starting point.
On the way to Scar Reef from Taliwang, you’ll pass Poto Batu Beach, home to a large rock with a natural hole you can walk through. Local legend has it that making a wish while passing through the rock will make it come true. It’s worth a try—it costs nothing, after all!
Sumbawa Besar: The Capital and Historical Hub
As the island’s capital, Sumbawa Besar is the gateway for travelers arriving by plane and the starting point for exploring the west of the island. While the city itself offers limited attractions, the Dalam Loka Palace, an 18th-century wooden structure, is a highlight for its traditional architecture and insight into the island’s history.
The local market is another must-visit for honey, coffee, dried fish, and handwoven textiles called songket.
Where to Stay at Sumbawa Besar
Stay at Hotel Kaloka, conveniently located near the airport. It offers a terrace with views of planes landing and the sunset. The hotel also organizes overnight boat trips in Saleh Bay aboard the Murray WhaleShark, with comfortable cabins for guests.
Where to Eat at Sumbawa Besar
The best restaurant is undoubtedly the ARL resto & cafe not far from the airport. You will find a mix of Indonesian and international cuisine there.
Mojo Island: A Hidden Jewel
Mojo Island is a small, tranquil haven off Sumbawa’s coast, perfect for snorkeling and diving. Its untouched beaches and vibrant coral reefs make it a paradise for marine enthusiasts. The island also serves as a nesting site for sea turtles, with opportunities to witness hatchlings making their way to the ocean.
Eco-friendly accommodations enhance the experience, allowing visitors to immerse themselves in this natural wonderland.
Saleh Bay: Swimming with Whale Sharks in Sumbawa
One of the highlights of a visit to Sumbawa is the opportunity to dive or swim with a whale shark in Saleh Bay. This vast bay is home to a population of around 120 whale sharks, usually attracted by the plankton-rich waters and local fishing activities. These giants of the sea, which can grow up to 12 metres long, are completely harmless to humans.
Excursions to Saleh Bay often include a boat trip where you will have the chance to see these gentle giants swimming peacefully alongside the boat. For divers, the experience of being underwater with a whale shark is both awe-inspiring and calming, offering a unique moment of connection with nature.
How is diving with whale sharks?
The adventure begins early in the morning, with a boat departure around 4am from a small port in Saleh Bay. If you are coming from Sumbawa Besar, this means a departure around 2am. To avoid this long night journey, I personally preferred to spend the night at the Hotel Villa Beach Transit & Resto.
The boat heads north towards Mount Tambora for about an hour of sailing. On board, you are provided with a cushion and a blanket, which allows you to finish your night comfortably. However, if you are in the mood to stay up, you can admire a spectacular starry sky, free from any light pollution, a real spectacle in itself.
Encounter with whale sharks
Around 5:30am, the boat reaches a bagan, a large traditional Indonesian fishing platform that is finishing its night fishing. A first whale shark soon arrives to feed on a kind of mixture of shrimp and small fish thrown back by the platforms at the end of their night fishing. Usually followed by several others
These marine giants swim just below the surface, offering unique opportunities for interaction, whether snorkeling or scuba diving.
Best season to meet a whale shark
Whale sharks can be observed in Sumbawa all year round. However, the dry season (May to November) is the best. In addition, you will have a better chance of seeing several whale sharks around the new moon.
An unforgettable dive
The dives take place in shallow waters, which allows you to stay in the company of whale sharks for a long time. Visibility is often excellent, and observing a whale shark in these conditions is an unforgettable experience. Divers have the chance to stay underwater for up to 2 hours, contemplating these majestic creatures peacefully evolving under the fishing platform.
This immersion in Saleh Bay is a unique experience, leaving a lasting mark on all those who are lucky enough to participate. Whether you are a keen diver or a snorkeler, swimming alongside the world’s largest fish in such an authentic setting is an adventure not to be missed.
Aside from whale sharks, Saleh Bay is surrounded by traditional fishing villages, offering visitors a glimpse into the local culture and daily life of the people of Sumbawa.
Bima: A Bustling Port and Eastern Gateway
Located in eastern Sumbawa, Bima offers a different vibe, with its dynamic port and gateway to Komodo and Flores. The central market is a sensory delight, brimming with fresh produce, seafood, and vibrant local life.
For nature enthusiasts, Bima serves as a base for treks to Mount Tambora, the volcano responsible for the infamous 1815 eruption that altered global climates.
Huu: World-Class Surfing
Huu is a legendary surf destination, known for its iconic spot, Lakey Peak. The consistent waves at Lakey Peak and Lakey Pipe attract surfers from around the world. After an exhilarating session, relax on the pristine beaches or enjoy local hospitality at nearby restaurants and accommodations.
Getting to Sumbawa
From Bali to Sumbawa
From Bali, you can take a domestic flight of about an hour. Choose Sumbawa Besar airport if you prefer to visit the west of Sumbawa. Or Bima airport to visit the east of the island. Kertasari airport should open soon, on the west coast of Sumbawa. Several local companies, such as Wings Air and Garuda Indonesia, offer these flights. This is the fastest and most comfortable option if you want to reduce your travel time.
If you are seated near the window on the left side of the plane from Bali, you may be lucky enough to observe the Rinjani volcano and its crater lake up close.
It is also possible to reach Sumbawa by boat via Lombok. You will first have to take a ferry or speedboat from Bali to Lombok. Then cross Lombok by car or bus to the port of Kayangan (east of Lombok). From there, a ferry of about 1h30 will take you to the port of Poto Tano, west of Sumbawa.
From Lombok to Sumbawa
If you are already in Lombok, reaching Sumbawa is easy. The ferry from Kayangan operates 24 hours a day with several crossings per day. Once you arrive in Poto Tano, you can rent a scooter, a car, or take a bus to explore the island.
From Flores or Komodo to Sumbawa
For travelers arriving from the east, especially from Flores or Komodo National Park, ferries connect the ports of Labuan Bajo to Bima or Sape (east of Sumbawa).
Domestic Transportation
Once on the island, you can use local taxis, bemos (minibuses), or rent a scooter or car to get around easily. Send me a message if you want a contact to rent a car or scooter at Sumbawa Besar airport.
