Sumba is a hidden gem of Indonesia, lying just south of Flores and southeast of Sumbawa. Spanning approximately 220 kilometers in length and 40 to 70 kilometers in width, the island is about twice the size of Bali. Yet, with a population of only 800,000 and a minimal tourist footprint, Sumba offers an untouched, authentic experience. Visitors are drawn to its raw beauty, dramatic landscapes, and unique cultural traditions.
The island’s geography is strikingly diverse. The eastern region is dominated by vast savannahs, which, during the rainy season, transform into lush green hills reminiscent of the Teletubbies’ whimsical landscapes. In contrast, the western part is shrouded in dense jungles, adding a sense of mystery and adventure. One of Sumba’s distinctive cultural features is the parang—a traditional machete carried by many locals. While primarily a tool for cutting vegetation, it also carries symbolic and cultural significance. It’s not uncommon for the locals of East Sumba to share lighthearted tales about their western neighbors and their parang.
Sumba is also home to breathtaking beaches, particularly along the south coast, where untouched shores invite exploration and relaxation. In March 2024, I journeyed across this magnificent island from east to west. Join me as I share my discoveries of Sumba’s wild landscapes, vibrant culture, and unspoiled beauty!
East Sumba
Waingapu
There are two airports in Sumba. I arrived at Waingapu airport from Bali. There were 4 daily flights to Waingapu before Covid but there is only one flight now. I chose to sleep at the Morinda hotel, 15 minutes south of the airport which offers a free pick-up at the airport. The hotel is located in an absolutely magnificent environment on a hill overlooking a river. Other very green hills surround the hotel and offer a superb setting at sunrise and sunset.
I also recommend you to take the hill walk offered by the hotel. The walk lasts a little over 90 minutes, from 5:30 am to 7 am and is definitely worth waking up early in the morning. The encounter with wild horses on the ridge line separating two hills accompanied by the owner’s dog, Batman, is a unique experience.
I am not sure I would recommend the kayak ride on the river because I suspect there are a lot of crocodiles roaming around.
Not far from Waingapu you can stop at Walakiri beach for a bite to eat or a drink from a coconut. Visitors love to take pictures in front of small trees growing in the water.
Melolo
Melolo, located in East Sumba, is a corner of Indonesia still preserved from mass tourism. This small town offers an authentic experience of the culture and spectacular nature of the island of Sumba.
In the heart of Melolo, the traditional village of Watu Hadang is a living testament to Sumba’s ancient customs. Here you will see thatched houses built using traditional techniques. Their shape, with a very high and pointed central roof that captures and then evacuates hot air, is characteristic of Sumba houses. Each house has two entrances. The one on the left is reserved for the family, the one on the right is for visitors and guests.
Opposite the houses are tombs richly decorated with carvings. You may also be able to have a demonstration of how local artisans dye the threads that will be used to weave fabrics from plants, roots or other natural elements.
Kampung Adat Praiyawang
A little further on, check out Kampung Adat Praiyawang, another example of a traditional village with even more imposing tombs.
The mouth of the Kayouri River is another attraction in East Sumba. It is a natural habitat for crocodiles, offering the more adventurous the opportunity to observe these impressive predators in their natural environment.
For dining or to spend the night you can have lunch, dinner or sleep at Amu Dahi. The local cuisine is tasty and the place allows you to relax after a day of exploring.
Tarimbang Beach
On the south coast of East Sumba is Tarimbang Beach. Access is not easy and you will have to follow a bad road for about 3 hours for the last tens of kilometers. Without a 4×4 it is mission impossible. The road from Menolo to Tarimbang is even more extreme. A Belgian tourist tried to make the trip with a normal car leaving at 7 am. He arrived at midnight … It reminds me a little of the roads of Nusa Penida in 2015, before they were redone.
But once you arrive you will be rewarded with a very beautiful beach, absolutely deserted. There are a few eco resorts along the beach, which mainly welcome surfing enthusiasts or underwater hunting enthusiasts but they are very discreet and very well integrated into the environment. There is also a small complex on a hill that produces sugar cane.
West Sumba
Waikabubak
The town of Waikabubak is the obligatory stopover point to go from East Sumba to West Sumba. I stopped there to visit the traditional village of Wailiang and the local market.
The traditional village of Wailang is quite similar to those of East Sumba. But the traditional houses with thatched roofs, the “uma mbatangu”, are all inhabited there. One of the houses proudly displays outside all the trophies won by the son of the family in local Mister Sumba competitions! The roofs of the Uma Mbatangu of West Sumba are also higher and more pointed than the roofs of the traditional houses of East Sumba.
The Waikabubak market is a crossroads of local life where colors, flavors and sounds mingle. Here you will find a variety of local produce, from fresh fruits and vegetables to colourful hand-woven ikat fabrics that reflect the island’s centuries-old craft skills.
West Sumba Beaches
The southern beaches of West Sumba, with their pristine white sands and turquoise waters, are a haven for those looking to escape the hustle and bustle of the modern world. I spent 2 nights at Sumba Surf Camp, a little paradise for surfers. This small resort is located in the same bay as the very exclusive Nihi, but at a much more affordable price! From here you can explore the nearby beaches.
Tambolaka
Tambolaka, the gateway to the region with its airport, is also a starting point for exploring the treasures of West Sumba. Not far from Tambolaka I recommend you visit the Talasi cashew nut factory. It is a remarkable example of local entrepreneurship aimed at enhancing the island’s natural resources while promoting sustainable development. Visitors can learn the cashew nut processing process, from harvest to production. And of course buy cashew nuts at an unbeatable price compared to French prices. A nice little gift to bring back from your trip.
The Sumba Hospitality Foundation is also a commendable initiative in the region, combining a hotel school and an eco-resort. This project aims to train young people in Sumba in the hospitality and tourism professions. The foundation goes around the schools to recruit the best students and offers them a one-year training. You can dine there by booking in advance and you will contribute to the training of young people! The evening I went there the meal was excellent.
How to get to Sumba
Getting to Sumba is an adventure in itself. The most convenient way to reach the island is by air, with daily flights to Tambolaka Airport (TMC) in the west or Waingapu Airport (WGP) in the east. These flights typically depart from major Indonesian cities like Bali, Jakarta, or Kupang, the capital of East Nusa Tenggara. Domestic airlines such as Wings Air, Citilink, and Garuda Indonesia frequently operate these routes.
If you’re already exploring neighboring islands, ferries offer a more budget-friendly, albeit slower, alternative, connecting Sumba to Flores, Sumbawa, and Timor. Once on the island, getting around can be done by renting a car or motorbike, as public transport is limited. Sumba’s rugged beauty and unique culture make the journey worthwhile, whether you’re exploring its pristine beaches, rolling savannahs, or traditional villages. Read my page about how to get around Indonesia to know more.
How to get around Sumba
The main roads are kept in very good condition. But the secondary roads, especially those leading to the beaches of East Sumba can be difficult to drive on, especially in the rainy season. You will definitely need to take a 4×4 with a driver. The prices are about double the prices for renting a scooter or renting a car with a driver in Bali or Nusa Penida. Send me a message and I will give you a contact.